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Il Mulino New York pops up on Palmetto

Word spreads fast that a flagship New York restaurant just opened at 451 E. Palmetto Park Road.

Il Mulino New York was only open four days in the 75-seat restaurant with indoor and alfresco dining under awning. And already diners who knew their iconic food and white glove-style service arrived Saturday night. Hours are 5 to 11 p.m. Monday through Sunday. Reservations are welcome.

The minute you sit down, two servers come by with “gratis.” That’s hunks from a Grana Padano cheese wheel, four kinds of focaccia, bruschetta and waver-thin, sliced and marinated zucchini. That level of service and detail sets the tone for the rest of the meal.

Truffle Ravioli Porcini

Our first course was bites of shelled langostino in a sumptuous wine sauce. You can choose sautéed spinach with garlic or Tuscan risotto, with Parmesan, peas, zucchini. They use a shorter grained rice for risottos.

For entrees, a whole dover sole was deboned and filleted to perfection. A branzini was also offered Saturday night. There are three scampi dishes on the regular menu.

A large portion of osso buco, braised veal shanks on the bone, was another special. The meat didn’t need a knife. Beef dishes and free-range chicken are also on their a la carte menu with six side dishes.

Among appetizers they’re known for are grilled octopus, beef carpaccio, tuna tartare, calamari fritti and clams oreganata. There are three ceviches and caviar.

Among the pasta dishes are gnocchi, ravioli porcini, rigatoni with Bolognese, cavatelli with sausage and broccoli rabe; or capellini with pancetta, sweet peas and wild mushroom in a vodka cream and black truffle sauce. They have gluten-free pasta.

Grilled Octopus

The menu offers a Caesar, baby argula or spinach salad, but a couple at the next table had a organic tomato salad they loved.

There’s a serious wine list, heavy on Italians. We ordered Prosecco first and Pinot Noir Belle Glos and Santa Cristina Pinot Grigio by the glass with our meals.

For dessert we sampled their light tira misu and ricotta cheesecake with a cappucino.

Maitre de Tin Ponticorvo even offered us an after dinner aperitif, a choice of coconut, fig or lemoncello.

Il Mulino’s flagship restaurant opened more than 38 years ago in Greenwich Village. Now there are multiple locations in New York City, Long Island and nationally, including Miami and Sunny Isles in south Florida.

By Marci Shatzman

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